The Miss Universe Gown: It's More Than Just a Dress

On January 14, 2023, New Orleans hosted the 71st Miss Universe competition at the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center for the first time ever. The event brought together 90 women worldwide who shared their culture, values, and unique personas. While all the women appeared confident and poised, R’Bonney Gabriel of the United States was declared the competition winner and crowned for this year’s title. The pageant consists of a swimsuit, evening gown, and question-response category, each judged through an intricate scoring system. While these are the segments viewers are accustomed to today, it hasn't always been this way - the first eight years of Miss Universe only had a swimsuit category before the addition of the evening gown.

Although the entire conversation surrounding pageants is tricky, with key themes of beauty idealizations and female objectification, the introduction of the evening gown allows us to explore how the winner's dress mirrors society’s perception of fashion at the time. Further, with most of the judgments undoubtedly based on physical appearance, it's essential to look inward as an audience and change our views in response to an organization that isn't changing its own; to do so, it's vital to analyze the time capsule of conversations that the evening gown category has the power to showcase. 

With the first Miss Universe being crowned in 1952, the looks of the past hold both contrasts and similarities to what we see on stage today. From more conservative high-neck halter cuts to chiffon material, the first few years of Miss Universe evening gowns leaned on the safe side, exemplified in the 1966 winner's circle above. Many of the embellishments were minimal as the competition introduced new categories to the long-standing tradition, so very few high slits, intense bling, or vibrant colors were seen. Although these royal-inspired dresses remain as classics, the designers have slowly utilized technical elements to construct a more unique look.

Now, more contestants compete in dresses that pay homage to their nationality, symbolize certain characteristics, and better embody who they are. Many designers step out of the box with their evening gowns, creating looks that spark conversation between avid pageant watchers and fashion fans alike. For example, Miss Universe 2019's Zozibini Tunzi wore an ombre beaded gown to honor her Xhosa heritage, with a chic triangle cut out in the center. Another example is in 2020 when Miss Universe Philippines Rabiya Mateo wore a dazzling yellow dress inspired by the Philippine sun, representing a brighter tomorrow - a much-needed message that year.

To bring us forward in time to New Orleans, this year's Filipino-American winner, R'Bonney Gabriel, wore a beautiful form-fitting gown created by Filipino designer Rian Fernandez. The black onyx dress, shown below, was covered in glass mirror droplets to reflect the stage's lights and symbolically depict Gabriel's self-growth. The dress was flexible, with a fringe skirt detailed with blue Swarovski crystals that allowed Gabriel to sway on stage elegantly; to a greater capacity, the dress's movement intentionally stood for the new era of emerging women in The United States. In her final statement, she says, "...I’ve been sewing for 13 years, I use fashion as a force for good. In my industry, I’m cutting down on pollution through recycled materials when I make my clothing. I teach sewing classes to women that have survived human trafficking and domestic violence.” There was purpose through each decision Fernandez made in the gown's curation, with the black color representing sophistication and the sharp accents representing strength. It was named "the phenomenal queen."

Overall, it's well-known that "Miss Universe" has traditionally focused on idealistic standards, enforcing blinders toward attractiveness and not inner worth. However, after learning more about the most recent winner's gown and its meaning, I think that we, as a society, have the potential to change this negative discourse. Rather than focusing on how the dress compliments the competitor's physical appearance relative to an unattainable framework of beauty, we should focus on self-expression and the story it tells about each individual. Fashion is a form of communication, a way of using art to symbolize identity and convey a message. We need to continue ensuring that the title of "Miss Universe" highlights someone who doesn't just use the evening gown category to show themselves off but to show off what they stand for and the influence they have in it.