Miu Miu, Prada, Chloe: The Fashion Comeback of 2025
You could find Chloe Paddington for 90 in May on Poshmark; Chloe is rereleasing it at $2990. But their recent runway collection might make us forgive them.
Chloe opened with a perfect sheer black skirt, chunky gold necklaces, and a bag full of charms that we saw throughout the show. The use of fur, metals, leather, and lace made this show feel especially on trend, and they brought back the Paddington from the 2005 Phoebe Philo spring collection. This bag has been trending on Tiktok for over a year now, and as we see it come back in popularity 20 years later, Chloe decided to embrace this with a rerelease of it this month. Maya Wigram, daughter of Phoebe Philo, who served as creative director at Chloé from 2001 to 2006, also walked Chloé’s recent FW runway.
When the Paddington bag was introduced, it was first worn by celebrities like the Hilton sisters, Nicole Richie, Mischa Barton, and Kate Moss. On this runway, they paired it with large striped fox tail keychains that were also hung off of dresses and outerwear. “Partially, Kamali’s ‘rediscovery’ thread leads back to the conflation of the posh-hippy-grunge antiestablishment female-led style, which spanned the ’70s and ’90s”(Vogue). But what Kamali brings to her perspective on fashion now is her interest in the early-’80s Karl Lagerfeld Chloé.
She pointed to boards of his shows where dolman-sleeve full-skirted leather coats twirled the runway.” The whimsical, “I just put this together” vibe that is brought throughout this show is what I loved most about this collection. It's very Serena Van Der Woodsen during the Thanksgiving episodes of Gossip Girl. The mix of flats and platform heels on the runway with bold textures of satin and layered gold chunky necklaces gives off the perfect effortless vibe that makes the Chloe girl continue to feel refreshed every season. The debut of the Chloe “cool girl” can be credited to Stella McCartney’s arrival at Chloe in 1997 following her graduation from Central Saint Martins in 1995.
Petra Collins fitting with chloe in january
Before then, Chloe was known for its elegance and femininity, thanks to creative directors like Lagerfeld, Gaby Agyen, and Martin Sitbon, but it wasn’t until McCartney’s arrival that Chloe became a brand known for its youthfulness and romance. In 2001, Phoebe Philo was able to continue this legacy at Chloe, and her focus on boho-chic layers and ruffles is still very prevalent in Chloe’s present designs by Chemena Kamali. Vestiaire Collective, which has a partnership with Chloe as part of its Resale-as-a-service program, has reported that searches for “boho” have doubled in 2025 since last year. ( InStyle) Kamali perfectly aligned boho’s sleazy and ruffly designs with the instinctive femininity of the Chloe girl this season, and this is just what we needed from them at a time when most brands are looking for ways to redefine themselves as “modern” unnecessarily. The familiarity in design is what still attracts young girls to Chloe’s clothing, and what brings such creative names (like photographer, designer, and director, Petra Collins) to Chloe’s runways.
Chemena Kamali took over for Gabriele Hearst in 2023 and has been with Chloe as creative director since, but she started there as an intern many years ago and also worked as a design director under Claire Waight Keller (keep up those internship applications, guys)
Some of my favorite looks off the runway include:
“They looked like clothes that have been handed down through generations,” said the actress Dree Hemingway after Chloé’s fall 2025 show on Thursday.
Then we got so much mess from Prada.
Love that every one of the models’ messy hair and smug faces represents how much emotion can be shown on a runway.
This look in particular stood out because of how mismatched the floral top is with the grey skirt, and of course, we all love Loli.
“Exposing clichés is written into the brand source code here, and Prada is famous for pronouncing that ‘ugly is exciting,’ but she and Simons tapped into something potent in their examination of femininity and its discontents, a subject that’s bubbling up in other parts of the culture, as well”. (Vogue)
Some looks were simpler, some were bright (brown fur with green particularly screamed ugly to me), but the messy hair was carried throughout. Raw hems, seams, and little black dresses that do not hug the body in a traditionally flattering way are all an expression of what dressing up as a woman can feel like when there are so many expectations. As Prada said herself, “We just talk about which clothes make sense now.” The designs at Prada have always had the wearer in mind, not the viewer.
We've seen Chloe bring back a cool girl and then Prada bring back a real one. Prada continues to bring this in their Miu Miu show, while still being flirty and new with off-the-shoulder tank tops and bright fuschias and corals. I love that they can make mature clothes feel youthful at Miu Miu after a dramatic opening at Prada, all while commenting on femininity in a modern and sensitive way.
Then everyone on TikTok got mad at Alix Earle for wearing a leather blue set styled for her for the show.
Gigi is one of the first looks with green socks, a coat that is way too big on her, and a perfect hat.
We saw a lot of odd patterned socks, open neck collars, and layering that Miu Miu is known for in fall. Some of it reminded me of the stuff I would find in the vintage store in my Grandma’s retirement home, but I still loved it.
Their use of old and young models and old and young clothing was stunning.
“Miu Miu has in fact always been simple in principle. This season it meant there was a trove of items, reiterated: knee socks in a ton of colors, skinny lurex sweaters, bias-cut half slip skirts, fake fur stoles, ’40s or ’50s knee-length peach or silver satin lingerie dresses, polo tops with oddly-angled zips. And of course, all those conical bullet bras.”
“No one has spoken as directly as Prada about the effect on the creative psyche of living in an age of anxiety and fear.” A line from her press release said more: “This season, we wanted to create an elegance with nothing, through the everyday, through direct manipulations of simple pieces.”(Vogue)
Most of the shoes and jackets’ silhouettes were similar to each other, paired with various bright colors and gold statement jewelry that we saw in Chloe as well. (I still want everyone to bring back silver in the fall). But this was Micciuas’ take on wearing what is in your closet, whether it is a sherpa sweater or a checkered tee, or snakeskin heels, together.
Actress Sarah Paulson walked on her first runway for Miu Miu in an open collar jacket, lace bra, and green heels.
Miu Miu pulled in 1920s fur scarves and silhouettes through the show, and Asap Rocky and Sydney Sweeney were special guests.
Amelia Gray, recently seen honoring Cher at Dsquared, walked as well, also in ribbed knee socks with open-toe pumps. She also wore a bonnet hat that has been recently released by brands like Paloma Wool, Free People, and SSENSe. Her attitude fits Miu Miu and Prada well IMO. Dsquared also had a bold runway titled Obsessed2 with Doechii performing and a recreation of a New York City scene for their 30th anniversary.
“Showgirls and leather men, cowboys, hot cops, gym boys, adult film stars, and BDSM aficionados—it was a parade of scantily-clad, costume-y characters, embodying Dsquared2’s unapologetic, sexy spirit.”
Dean and Dan staged their arrest as a part of the show.
I love all the personality this season, Chloe was my favorite collection, and I need some Miu Miu knee-high ribbed socks bad.
Xoxo,
Leah