Power Shifts & Runway Rifts: How Fashion Houses Are Embracing Diversity, But Not in Creative Spaces

Today, the news announced that the former creative head of Polo Ralph Lauren, Michael Rider, has been named the new artistic director of Celine. This change comes as Hedi Slimane departs from his role after seven years of leading the French luxury house. Slimane is credited with doubling the brand's revenue to €2.5 billion, a record-breaking milestone in its history. He also spearheaded several rebranding initiatives, including dropping the accent mark and "Paris" from the name of the house. Rider previously served as a design deputy under Phoebe Philo at Celine, and CEO Severine Merle emphasized Rider's creative vision and connection to the brand's heritage. His design philosophy and experience will help maintain continuity while infusing his vision into the brand. Rider's emphasis on quality during his time at Ralph Lauren aligns well with Celine's commitment to luxury craftsmanship. Furthermore, his genuine nature and deep understanding of Celine's ethos position him as a suitable leader for the brand's future evolution.

Michael Rider has been named artistic director of LVMH’s Celine label, mere hours after the official exit of star designer Hedi Slimane.

Celine is not the only brand experiencing a power shift. Key moments include Alessandro Michele stepping down from Gucci after reshaping its identity with maximalism, now replaced by Sabato de Sarno, who has ushered in a more minimalistic and sophisticated approach. At Alexander McQueen, Sarah Burton's emotional farewell marked the end of an era defined by her leadership following the tragic death of the brand’s founder.

Jeremy Scott's departure from Moschino after a decade-long tenure, where he injected humor and irreverence into fashion, contrasts with Pharrell Williams’ debut at Louis Vuitton, raising questions about whether celebrity designers are diluting fashion’s creative core. Meanwhile, Matthew Williams' exit from Givenchy has sparked reflections on the pressures creative directors face in a fast-paced, ever-evolving industry.

With Rider’s new role at Celine, we must consider how fashion will continue to be a place for creativity and innovation. The cycling of leadership without room for newcomers or trendsetters can leave these European brands in a stagnant state. Although many who witnessed the fall fashion runways are excited about the looks anticipated for 2024-2025, the ongoing cycle of creative directors continues to raise concerns.

Brands have attempted to validate themselves socially by issuing statements about their diversity efforts, particularly regarding Black representation in fashion. A New York Times investigation quoted various houses on their diversity goals, revealing mixed responses—some chose to comment, while others did not. One notable quote by Alton Mason from the piece stated, “I would love to see more white people who are leaders in fashion, or have these amazing platforms, asked about diversity, too. I feel like they are just as responsible as I am for spreading awareness to their white friends and families and counterparts on the injustices that we’re witnessing.”

Alton Mason made history in late 2018 when he became the first Black male model to walk in a Chanel show, 108 years after the house was founded. In 2020, he was named Model of the Year by Models.com and is set to make his acting debut as Little Richard in Baz Luhrmann's biopic “Elvis.”

Fashion has made significant strides in diversity, particularly in the models cast for shows and campaigns. Over the last decade, inclusivity has improved not only in sizing but also in representation. The 2019 New York Fashion Week runways were among the most diverse yet in that time, with an estimated 48 percent of the featured models from minority groups. Traditionally, the industry has favored white, tall, and thin models, establishing Eurocentric beauty standards that marginalized diverse communities.

However, the industry often resorts to tokenism, hiring just one model from minority groups to create an illusion of diversity without genuinely representing those communities, leading to underrepresentation. Now, runways are beginning to showcase a wider range of individuals, reflecting the way it should be. Models with disabilities, unique demographics, and those challenging the "one-size-fits-all" standard are helping to reshape how society views womenswear.

Fashion influences societal perceptions, and increased inclusivity can foster greater acceptance of diverse identities, reducing biases and stereotypes.

Having major fashion brands recognize the need for inclusion is no longer just a trend to avoid cancellation; it is a right for all individuals to see themselves represented within a brand's ecosystem. The recurring cycle of creative leads can limit the unique vision that initially attracted consumers to these brands when they were founded. If Chanel and Gucci's creative directors were to swap roles, hypothetically, it would raise questions about how this would serve each brand’s image without blending Chanel and Gucci’s brand look.

Finding more inclusive and creative minds to lead fashion houses will not hinder the industry; rather, it will elevate it. Representation is not merely a defense against potential backlash; it enriches the creative landscape and enhances runway presentations.

In the wake of the pandemic and the social movements advocating for inclusion and diversity over the past 20 years, five out of nine American Vogue covers in 2020 since September have featured Black models, three of which were shot by Black photographers (another featured an illustration of a Black designer). Similarly, four out of six Elle UK covers and three out of six Vogue UK covers have also highlighted Black representation. InStyle has used Black models and photographers for four out of six issues. In 2024 only two out of six of the released covers were diverse models. so far only These statistics illustrate that images and representation matter.

2020 Cover Photos

2024 Cover Photos 

Michael Rider is an excellent choice for Celine, as his connection to the brand's heritage aligns well with its future direction. Fashion houses should prioritize finding inclusive and creative minds to lead them forward. Diversity encompasses various dimensions, including gender, sexuality, religion, and physical ability. While many brands can claim to be genuinely diverse in one of these areas, not all do so comprehensively. Developing a strategy for fashion to become more inclusive—not just in sizing but also in the creative space—by empowering creatives from diverse backgrounds will benefit both the brands and their consumers.